Milwaukee Midget

[fordboy628]

Fordboy,
You are obviously not a PBR fan!

Rex

Rex,

Ahh yess . . . . PBR.     Well, the taste of PBR reminds me of what all my great uncles drank:  Blatz

And yes, I think it tastes just like it is pronounced . . . . .   

Now I realize that PBR is Chris's "go to" choice when the pickin's are slim, something I've chosen to "overlook", and I concentrate on his other, "more redeeming qualities" . . . . .   



However, I do not think of myself, nor did I start off as: "a fermented beverage elitist" . . . . .

BUT, I do agree with Stainless.

Life is too short to consume, er, sample, nondescript beers.    And I'm just too "long in the tooth" to change my opinion.

JMHO . . . .


and everyone is entitled to their own, opinion, and their own preferred brand.   

 
Goneovertothedarksideboy

[salt27]

Just don't hand Stainless an IPA, he'll had it right back.  

Been there done that.     

  Don

[fordboy628]

Just don't hand Stainless an IPA, he'll had it right back.  

Been there done that.     

  Don

As would I.       More for you guys that enjoy it!

Nothing wrong with IPA's of course, just not my cup of tea, er . . . . . , not my pint of brew! 

I'm hoarding all the dark, malty and Burbon-ey stuff I can get my hands on.

I'll share with Bob.


But I'm not "wasting it" on you IPA guys who will just complain about the "lack of bite".       

We will have to "compromise" on something else . . . . . .

    
Darkandmaltyboy

[Stainless1]

Hey Don, if it is any consolation a good friend of mine makes a double IPA that is well balanced and quite good... it does not make you make the face... 
He also made his first NE IPA, came in at 9.8% ... it is drinkable, but we ended up killing his batch of Belgium Quad first so I will have to sample that one again to be able to pass judgement.
He always has a Brown or Stout on tap... that's what his wife likes...
Back to your regular programming.... I need to grab a Bells Cream Stout out of the fridge and let it warm up a little 

[salt27]

Chris, sorry about the hijack but after all we are talking beer.   

Stainless, actually for the last couple of years I have been drinking Pelican's Kiwanda, it's a pre-prohibition cream ale.

I'll bring you a sample.

  Don

[Dr Goggles]

He's going to be at Gairdner take it there Don

We're IPA drinkers at my place, have been for a good while, I just turned a double IPA brew that's pretty tidy....personally if it's over 8% I reckon it's barley wine....

PBR, hmm, Bud, all of our domestic beers here they don't have enough of what makes beer in them for me...the fact is they're made with the cheapest possible ingredients and they taste like it, not that I'd know, I barely touch the stuff.

[salt27]

James, Oh man would I love to be at Gairdner with the Bonneville crew but it's not in the cards this time.

 Don

[Milwaukee Midget]

One of the reasons IPA has taken off in recent years that they can be commercially produced as cheaply as an American Lager.

I'm not persuaded by the cache of an exotic European-Asian origin backstory.

I know cheap beer when I drink it, because I drink a LOT of it.

 

[Milwaukee Midget]

Silicone intake connectors arrived yesterday, as did the battery and charger.

Just for fun, I threw a volt meter on the terminals. 

18.42 V, right out of the box.

This thing delivers more watts than a Marshall Stack - and it weighs about the same . . .

[fordboy628]

and yet again . . . . back to our regularly scheduled programming . . . . . .

Transvestite Oil Pan Porn! ! ! !

aahhhh, maybe just "oil pan transition" or "oil pan modification" would be a better headliner . . . . .  



Result of the trimming surgery . . . .




Closer view of just the remaining pan




The "removed" segment




Longitudinal view:




Lateral view:





Close up of the oil pan drain plug hole:




Some close ups of the drain plug installed.   We wanted to retain these threads to prevent the modifications from becoming too complicated.








In this photo you can see how a "step" was left to retain the drain plug hole threads.   Also visible is the machined chamfer for the weld bead.




View of the oil pan plug from the opposite side.   The notch just clears the original oil pan plug threads in the casting.
On the near side, the remainders of the 2 threaded bosses will need to be filled with weld or plugged or ?
Note the casting logo on the side of the oil pan.   Can anyone identify the foundry or material from this logo?



Next step will be to cut out a paper pattern for the new oil pan bottom.    That piece will then be cut out of some 6061 aluminum plate 3/16ths of an inch thick.     Then the pan will be rigidly bolted back to the mock up assembly to be welded up.    I'm planning on using 4043 filler rod to weld the plate to the casting.    Casting is probably LM25 and with the 6061 plate, the softer 4043 filler should prevent cracking in the weld zone.  I'm open to any advice on filler rod from welders with more experience on this.    And the new bottom plate could be cut from softer aluminum if need be, but it would be nice to use 6061 for strength.

It will be next week before I can free up any time to make more progress on the oil pan.

Made some progress on the water outlet.    Ordered up a 1-1/4" beaded hose to 3/4 pipe male to male adaptor.     $18 + shipping.   These are available from several manufacturers.   Any news on electric pump choices?

Laid out the adjuster for the cam drive belt.    Probably next week as well.

 
Weldyboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

That's pretty darned slick!

Mike's got good chops.

Let Mike know I have the axle housing.  I'd be willing to run it down to him on Saturday.

View of the oil pan plug from the opposite side.    Can anyone identify the foundry or material from this logo?

Just as I suspected - recycled Boddingtons cans . . .

[Peter Jack]

Your material choices seem just fine to me. If I were doing the job I'd just build up weld in those two partial holes until you had a solid weld to the surface and then grind them level with the rest of the surface. There's no need to fill the whole hole. I'd grind out the thread where you're going to weld just to ensure a perfect weld. All welding should be carried out with the pan bolted firmly to the block.

Good luck.

Pete

[Milwaukee Midget]

All welding should be carried out with the pan bolted firmly to the block.

Absolutely, particularly with this "stacked sandwich" construction.  You'll note the flange at the back, and how it's reinforced with the webbing inside the pan.  It's a quasi-structural area of the entire block assembly - which includes the pan - and in addition, Mark whittled away part of the bellhousing flange to fit the starter.

The girdle is still unmodified, but after everything external is done on the block and we've got the ARP Studs torqued into place - when we're confident that everything has settled down - at that point, we'll do the align hone.

I'm thinking that might be an operation we'll want to do with the transmission adapter torqued into place, as well.

[fordboy628]

That's pretty darned slick!

Mike's got good chops.

Let Mike know I have the axle housing.  I'd be willing to run it down to him on Saturday.

View of the oil pan plug from the opposite side.    Can anyone identify the foundry or material from this logo?

Just as I suspected - recycled Boddingtons cans . . .

midget,


A/   Yeah, Mike is a pretty good machinist.   Check out this billet cam drive housing/front mount plate for his SCCA "Turdner".    Designed & machined by him in his garage! !   Works bitchin' . . . . .







BTW, the photos are from Mike's dyno session @ T&T.    Engine is an English Ford 1537cc Cross Flow with restricted choke and valve sizes.


2/   I've let Mike know about the housing.    Just have to determine the delivery schedule.

d/   Of course it is the "recycled" logo . . . .    I was just hoping I was mistaken.    Maybe the pan is recycled Old Speckled Hen cans . . . . .     but, probably too much to hope for . . . . . .

 
F/b

[fordboy628]

Your material choices seem just fine to me. If I were doing the job I'd just build up weld in those two partial holes until you had a solid weld to the surface and then grind them level with the rest of the surface. There's no need to fill the whole hole. I'd grind out the thread where you're going to weld just to ensure a perfect weld. All welding should be carried out with the pan bolted firmly to the block.

Good luck.

Pete

Thanks Pete.   It's been a while since I've done any "serious melting" . . . . .

What you described is pretty much my plan, although I wasn't going to grind out the threads.   Thinking about it though, grinding threads out is a good idea because there is no way to get all the oil/dirt out of threads, and that crap would just contaminate the weld zone.   I should know better though.

Yeah, the crank will get removed, and everything else will get bolted up big time.

 
F/b