Hi, IO -
Even staring at it, checking my notes, and going over Mark's comments, what we're up to here is as clear as mud.
Just to clarify, go ahead and double-click on this picture - it will take you to the video -

By design, the physical control over barrel movement is the step on the barrel into the crankcase and the clamp load of the head through the block. There's a couple of thousandths of barrel movement side to side within the crankcase at room temperature. This is how the engine was designed.
Mark has explained the dimensions pretty well, but to summarize, the plan is to have Darton whip up some oversized sleeves that will be machined to be a press fit into the block both into the body of the crankcase, and at the top of the block at the bosses where the through bolts pass. This should be sufficient to stabilize the barrel's side-to-side motion and eliminate fretting of the head face where the barrels meet the head. O-rings, along with the steel dowels will further stabilize the mating of the top of the block and the head.
By making the top of the barrel larger in diameter with a deeper step at the point that it meets the bores in the body of the crankcase, by machining the face of the bores in the crankcase to provide a larger ledge for the new barrel step to sit on, and by machining the bolt bosses concentrically with the crankcase bores to be a press fit with the top of the barrel, we should be able to stabilize the entire assembly.
Given the enlarged diameter of the barrels, I'm thinking turning the outside of the barrels where they're exposed into the water jacket with cooling groves might also be a smart idea, but we haven't discussed that completely.
Another issue this addresses is that in stock applications, honing of the bores is not recommended - replacement of the barrels is the standard procedure. With the new, larger barrels firmly press fitted into the block and with the use of a deck plate, we'll be able to get the recommended bore finish Total Seal recommends for their gapless rings. We're fighting for every bit of CR we can get, and wasting it on blow-by is something I want to minimize.
As to holding it all together, the ARP studs arrived on Christmas Eve. Apparently, Santa is no longer shipping directly from the North Pole - these were drop shipped by the factory elves in Ventura, California. The original "long bolt" is on the top -

Cam wheels arrived as well. I picked up a pair from Piper that I paid for with PayPal through a parts purveyor in Provence -

And the spare head for flow experimentation arrived from Pork Pie's Part of the planet -

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person in Milwaukee who owns one - I'm dead certain I'm the only Milwaukeean with a spare.