This might actually work.
I finally summoned up the sack to shave some metal off of the pedestals tonight. I used one of my ARP nuts as a guide to limit my tendency to overdo things. (Wow, I just used “nuts” and “sack” in the same paragraph? Ooops.)
Using a file, and being gentle, I just eyeballed it up, and then I used a fret file to put a nice radius on the edge. It's nice having luthier tools lying around-

I was surprised that I was actually able to get enough metal removed to allow me clearance, and not have to grind on the rocker itself. The rocker on the right shows the relieved pedestal, the one on the left is “as shipped” –

The result is .023 clearance between the top of the valve and the roller with the rocker all the way back against the pedestal. Considering that the valve was initially being held open about 1/32, it’s a great improvement.
Here’s my concern - The stock valve clearance is supposed to be .012, and with a high lift cam, I’m supposed to add another .003, so .015 is where I should be setting my valves. .023 - .015 = .08. I will have a .010 shim on the shaft between the rocker and the pedestal, which will move the rocker laterally, and should pick me up a couple of thousandths on the inside of the dogleg, but it all seems a bit tight. I don’t want the rocker to slam into the pedestal, and it wouldn’t take much in the way of maladjustment to cause that to happen. I can shave the rocker a bit, but I’d sure like to avoid that.
I’m entertaining all thoughts on this one.
P.S. Good news on the home front. My dad came through his knee replacement surgery with flying colors. They actually had him walking on it about 3 hours after the surgery.