Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)

[bvillercr]

Looks good bro, that's a really cool pic of your old man!

One of the reasons I post my builds is for the exact reason that other people might see something you don't and can prevent you a lot of heartache down the road from their past experiences.

Scott

Exactly and thanks.

[Y.B.]

To Bvillercr, please bare with me, as this is my first post ever. You described your pistons as Arias (CP) is this to say that cp are making the pistons? I have been following your project with a great deal of interest,and I thought this would be a worthy question for starting to communicate via the forum. Best of luck,Y.B.

[bvillercr]

To Bvillercr, please bare with me, as this is my first post ever. You described your pistons as Arias (CP) is this to say that cp are making the pistons? I have been following your project with a great deal of interest,and I thought this would be a worthy question for starting to communicate via the forum. Best of luck,Y.B.

It was suggested to us by an engine builder to use CP pistons.  When we received them the mold said Arias.  The reason we went with CP is for the heat coating on the skirt of the piston itself.  I believe that CP buys their pistons from Arias and puts their coatings on the piston.  Nick Arias who I believe is in charge at Arias, also frequents this web site and also this build every once in a while.  He would know more about the Arias (CP) connection more than me.  The last time we bought from Nick he gave us one heck of a deal.  (Thanks Nick)  Hope this info helped.  Troy

[revolutionary]

That's weird.  All of our CP piston forging say CP on them.  Did you buy direct?

[isiahstites]

That's weird.  All of our CP piston forging say CP on them.  Did you buy direct?

My CP pistons say CP on them as well.

Scott

[interested bystander]

Both, I believe is/are correct, and both are HIGH quality- just be sure you gave the piston deigner EVERTHING he/'she needs to know!

[bvillercr]

Thanks for the advice from others on this overflow issue.  It is now complete.



I  can't believe how long things take us to get done.   Just cleaning up all the oil lines and re-installing them seemed to take for ever.  some others things accomplished were the cleaning of the valve covers inside and out, installed the internal plugs in the head for the second spark plug, put in all the spark plugs and connected the wires, found all of water hoses for the engine and head and cleaned them all up(need to make changes to some).  Marked the inside of the port on the manifold at the head to be polished.  A lot more little things to be done.

[Peter Jack]

The homebuilt aircraft guys have a saying "90% done, 90% to go". It fits very well for race car projects too!

Pete

[revolutionary]

all you lack is finishing, right?

[bvillercr]

We got the ballistic blankets from DJ safety and they fit great.



Had to re-fit the push buttons for the fire system.  That inter-cooler took up too much room.



We got the air fuel ratio sensor and wires run.  The smart box is a different story.  It came with a suction cup mount.  It stayed in place for about ten seconds before it fell off, plus it is all plastic and will vibrate like hell.  So another mount needs to be made.

[Sumner]

You guys are doing great and even if it seems slow to you I can't believe how much you have accomplished over the last couple months.

     

I would consider moving your air/fuel sensor up the pipe a little unless it has been working fine for you there.  At low rpms and maybe at high rpms depending on the cam you could get reversion up the pipe that could effect the readings.  Ours is up about where I put the arrow and we still get some false readings from O2 being sucked up the pipe at lower rpms.

The other thing is I can't remember for sure what the operating temp for these is, but I've added a copper wing type heat sink between the sensor and pipe.  I looked for a picture, but can't find one.  I think I made it to the specs on Innovates site (  http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ )
Here is what they say:

The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon)
should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded in your
application you should either install a copper heat sink (instructions below) or the
Innovate Motorsports Heat-Sink Bung extender (HBX-1).
The bung extender is recommended for situations where airflow is restricted or
the encountered heat is higher than a heat sink can handle.

They show how to build a heat sink here on page 8 and that is what I used:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

I got the copper from Greg at Motor Sports Innovation (609) 265-2110.  If anyone is interested in getting Innovate's wide band air/fuel controller and sensors give Greg a call.  He has us LSR guys in mind.

Maybe none of this is a concern for you guys, but just though I would throw it out there,

Sum

[bvillercr]

We had the sensor higher up before, but this one calls for being 12-14 inches from the exhaust port. 

[NArias3]

To Bvillercr, please bare with me, as this is my first post ever. You described your pistons as Arias (CP) is this to say that cp are making the pistons? I have been following your project with a great deal of interest,and I thought this would be a worthy question for starting to communicate via the forum. Best of luck,Y.B.

It was suggested to us by an engine builder to use CP pistons.  When we received them the mold said Arias.  The reason we went with CP is for the heat coating on the skirt of the piston itself.  I believe that CP buys their pistons from Arias and puts their coatings on the piston.  Nick Arias who I believe is in charge at Arias, also frequents this web site and also this build every once in a while.  He would know more about the Arias (CP) connection more than me.  The last time we bought from Nick he gave us one heck of a deal.  (Thanks Nick)  Hope this info helped.  Troy

Troy's pistons appear to have been machined by CP on raw forgings supplied by ARIAS.  Having some experience working in the piston industry, I've seen this exchange of forgings from one manufacturer when the proper forging isn't available from the other.  ARIAS has swapped slugs with BME, CP, ROSS, VENOLIA and DIAMOND.  In this case, CP probably was out of or didn't have a low-dome Hemi for the Langlo's blown setup.

As long as you don't burn your bridges with your competition, they can actually become allies.

Nick 3rd.

[Rex Schimmer]

To finish it is only a thousand "5 minute" jobs, all of what take 2 hours each!!! It's the details that take the time.(and make the difference!)

Looking good.

Rex

[JGMagoo]

Bvillercr,
I noticed this in the Inovative Motorsports pdf installation instructions page:

7.4 Single Cylinder Engines
These kinds of engines are difficult to measure at the tail-pipe. The oscillations of the exhaust
gas are so large that a lot of outside air enters the exhaust and prevents correct measurement.

I see your predicament with this in running "zoomie" headers but it looks like it might upset your readings.

Are "zoomies" really that more efficient than collectors?

JG