Author Topic: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)  (Read 2046409 times)

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Offline 71GSSDemon

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2670 on: August 15, 2024, 05:25:36 PM »
Ok, thank you for the reply.  I was in the understanding that a heavy car with narrow tires gave more pressure per square inch of contact patch.  Having the wide tires on loose traction would seem reduce the traction unless treaded tire and the idea is more contact patch with less weight is advantageous.  I guess the light springs in the 4 link helps with this..  This is very interesting, always trying to learn. 

Offline jl222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2671 on: August 15, 2024, 05:48:06 PM »
Ok, thank you for the reply.  I was in the understanding that a heavy car with narrow tires gave more pressure per square inch of contact patch.  Having the wide tires on loose traction would seem reduce the traction unless treaded tire and the idea is more contact patch with less weight is advantageous.  I guess the light springs in the 4 link helps with this..  This is very interesting, always trying to learn.
 

  Where do you get less weight?
 
  Our weight is 4860 dry, with 15 gals of fuel, driver and 120 lbs of ice and 240 lbs of water etc were  at 5500 lbs.

 Contact patch

    JL222

 
 
 
« Last Edit: August 15, 2024, 05:51:03 PM by jl222 »

Offline 71GSSDemon

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2672 on: August 15, 2024, 07:19:30 PM »
I am just trying to understand, please I mean no disrespect,  your car is amazing.  Less weight was meant per square inch of contact patch.  It is distributed over a larger patch so there would be less weight per inch.  I understand asphalt and dyno rollers need wide tires. And mud and sand want wider tires to float better. Bit El Mirage and Bonneville being what they are, everyone has told me I need skinny tires on my build.  That's said, I am very interested in your set up as it flat out works!

Offline jl222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2673 on: August 16, 2024, 08:11:36 PM »

  Well, we didn't break any thing :-  But lots of WTF!!

  1st pass 263 at the 21/4 not running right Troy shut down,

 Back in pit, motor missing and popping, data showed low batteries, bought new, same bad MSD box, borrowed extra from Brian Dean the Thunder salt team, same. Finally found loose manifold bolts.We removed head after high EGT in $5 cyl at EL Mirage to check for damage, none. put back together, ran great tightened the hell out of manifold bolts only 5/16th wrench. We always retighten after first start up but we forgot to. Any how sitting in shade having a beer, I told my Grandson [driver next year] to remind us to tighten manifold bolts next morning about that time troy arrives from a few Pits over and one of the crew chies said to check for manifold leaks.
 Troy says I'll tighten them right now.
Started up ran GREAT :cheers:

 Ran the next morning 273 + in the 21/4 273 ++ in the 3 Troy had his phone on GPS showing

 286 at one point so pushed it hoping for a record but missed by just a few Hundreds.

 Car stared off good 280 is our best 21/4 time but stayed flat.

 Burned of sparkplug strap on that run in #7 and compression gauge showed no compression.
 Turns out after showing normal compression on #1 #3 and#5 the gauge stopped working.
 Maybe a good thing because we might not have removed head and piston. Bearing weird looking
piston OK no stuck rings, changed all rod bearings Put it together, fired up missing and popping
water in header #5 and #8

  Thats, it DONE.

                   jl222
  PS our 263mph run on 8- 3 was not listed in the results?





Offline Stan Back

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2674 on: August 16, 2024, 08:30:19 PM »
21/4 is "two and a quarter" or a speed average between the 2-mile marker and a quarter-mile from there.

Maybe best typed 2-1/4 or 2 to 2-1/4 speed average.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club"

Offline jl222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2675 on: August 17, 2024, 12:59:08 AM »
21/4 is "two and a quarter" or a speed average between the 2-mile marker and a quarter-mile from there.

Maybe best typed 2-1/4 or 2 to 2-1/4 speed average.

 results just say quarter

  JL222 :cheers:

Offline Stan Back

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2676 on: August 17, 2024, 01:18:10 PM »
Yeah, John.  But to someone who's not been there, 21/4 works out to be 5.25.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club"

Offline 71GSSDemon

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2677 on: August 17, 2024, 02:01:44 PM »
I understood the 21/4 to mean 2.25.  Although, when measuring wood for a door it is listed as 6/4  as in 6 - 1/4s instead of 1.5".  So maybe for the carpenters out there...

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2678 on: August 18, 2024, 04:00:15 PM »
277 sounded like a pretty good quarter speed, had my fingers crossed to hear a 3 at 3
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline jl222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2679 on: August 18, 2024, 05:42:45 PM »

 With all water drained from heads and block and after compression check we wanted to fire up to see if water was the missing and popping problem. A few sputters but would not fire up.

 Yanked heads, no stand out problem of leaking into heads but possibly silicon not sealing in places, hard to tell. Checked heads for cracks, didn't see any. Need to check for warped head but 125 ft lbs of torque and o rings in head?
 Checked EFI wire loom plug ends for corrosion, OK.

  Will put back together and install new ignition box

    JL222.

                       

Offline JAL AKA JL222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2680 on: November 21, 2024, 07:31:21 PM »
  New computer so new user name . Finaly found new activation in spam.

 any how engine will not start until squirting gas in small hole in intake runs on all 8 but stops after squirting.

 checked injectors for flow by removing fuel rails and injectors and sip tying injectors to fuel rails
 so, they wouldn't pop out under pressure, disconnected coil from distributer so no spark and risk of fire when engine turns over as ignition has to be on.
 Now we could see if injectors were shooting fuel while turning engine on starter. They were. Why no start up?
 Next step take out injectors just 4 on left side [8 of the 16 injectors are staged to come in at a higher rpm]
 and test for flow.
  this is done by attaching to short wires to the injectors installing a 1/4 in ? short rubber fuel line on injector
filling hose with brake clean applying air pressure to hose and  tapping wires to battery [we used battery from Rioby drill] this fires the injector and we could see lots if fluid coming out, Much more than engine turn.. But expected. Anyhow injectors not plugged

 Next step check engine  fuel pump . Use above test on injectors while mounted in engine and fuel supplied as normal and see if engine starts. i thing it will start but not keep running its like the injectors need more fuel sent from the brain box.

                        JL222



 

 
 
 




« Last Edit: November 21, 2024, 09:41:08 PM by JAL AKA JL222 »

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2681 on: November 22, 2024, 11:37:07 AM »
Or the brain box is sending too much fuel and it's killing the spark.... try to start it, then pull the pump fuse and try to start it again to see if it fires... My Motec has done that to me through no fault of its own... Manifold pressure sensor bad

And Sent you an email with a new password, maybe it will work...
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline JAL AKA JL222

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Re: Getting ready for Bonneville(rebuild)
« Reply #2682 on: November 22, 2024, 03:42:16 PM »
 Engine fires right up after squirting gas into manifold below butterfly and runs on all 8 but stops when squirting stops.

  Plug check after no start shows no fuel on plugs, also spun motor with plugs out to make sure no fuel in cylinders.

           Thanks, JL222
« Last Edit: November 22, 2024, 03:47:41 PM by JAL AKA JL222 »